You can replace just the grout between pool tiles, and when the tiles underneath are still solid, that is usually the right fix. Remove the failed grout to at least half the joint depth, clean the joints, and refill them with a grout rated for continuous submersion. If tiles are hollow, cracked or falling off, grout alone will not hold, and the job becomes tile repair or waterline replacement. Below we walk through how to tell which job you have, what to use, how the work is done, and what it costs.
TL;DR
- Grout-only replacement works when the tiles are bonded and the joints are what failed. Loose, hollow or cracked tiles need to be reset or replaced first.
- Use only a grout the manufacturer rates for submersion: an ANSI A118.3 epoxy or an ANSI A118.7 high-performance cement grout. Standard sanded wall grout is the wrong product.
- Proper prep means grinding out old grout to at least half the joint depth. Painting new grout over old, or smearing it on top, is why repairs fail.
- Waterline tile typically runs about $1,200 to $6,000 for common residential pool sizes, and full-pool tile costs far more.
- Find out why the grout failed (water chemistry, movement, poor prep) or the new grout will fail the same way.
Table of Contents
- Can you replace only the grout between pool tiles?
- How to tell whether the tiles also need work
- Repair, regrout or replace the waterline band?
- Which grout belongs in a pool
- How pool tile grout is replaced, step by step
- What does waterline tile replacement cost?
- Our perspective: fix the cause, then the grout
- Let us look at your pool tile
- FAQ
- Sources
Can you replace only the grout between pool tiles?
Yes. Regrouting is a normal, separate repair. The question is whether the grout is the real problem or only the visible one.
Grout-only work makes sense when:
- The tiles are firmly bonded and sound when tapped.
- The joints are crumbling, sunken, pitted or missing in patches.
- The tile faces are intact, without cracks or chips.
- The problem is the same along most of the band, not one spot caused by a leak or a settling shell.
It does not make sense when tiles sound hollow, shift under light pressure, or keep popping off in the same area. New grout cannot hold a tile that has lost its bond to the pool shell. In that case, regrouting first just buries the evidence.
If you are not sure what you are looking at, our guide to common pool tile problems shows what each failure looks like and what it usually means.
How to tell whether the tiles also need work
Three quick checks, done with the water level lowered or the pool drained as appropriate, will sort most cases.
1. Tap the tiles. Tapping along the tile band with a hard plastic handle or a coin can help map areas that sound different from their neighbors. A pool repair guide describes the same approach for finding hollow spots. A dull, hollow sound means the bond behind the tile has let go.
2. Look at the cracks. Cracks in the grout that run in a straight line across several tiles, or loose edges on the tile itself, point to movement rather than ordinary wear. Movement is one of the causes LATICRETE lists for grout failure in submerged installations, along with improper water chemistry, filling the pool too soon, unsuitable grout, poor preparation and installation errors, in its technical data sheet for fountains and water features.
3. Check the surroundings. Look at the coping, the deck joint and the plaster just below the tile. Cracking, gaps or rust stains nearby suggest the tile is only the first thing to show a bigger issue. Our articles on pool plaster cracking causes and pool spalling cover those.
A general guide to cracked grout repair, its causes and when to call a pro also helps you sort cosmetic hairline cracks from failures that need a professional.
If the damage is mostly white crust rather than missing grout, try cleaning before replacing anything. Our pool tile calcium removal guide covers starting with a 1:1 vinegar solution.
Repair, regrout or replace the waterline band?
Here is the practical decision line we use when we look at a pool:
| What you see | Usual fix |
|---|---|
| Joints crumbling, tiles solid and intact | Regrout the affected band |
| One to a few loose or cracked tiles, sound surface behind | Remove and reset those tiles, then grout around them |
| Large stretches hollow, or earlier patches that no longer match | Replace the waterline band |
| Tile popping off along with cracked plaster or coping | Fix the underlying shell or coping problem first |
One caution: you will see online rules of thumb that give a percentage of failed tile at which to replace the whole band. Treat any such number as a starting point for a conversation with a contractor, not a standard. What matters is whether the bond is sound, whether a patch will match, and whether the cause of failure has been found.
If you already suspect replacement, see how we approach pool tile replacement in Phoenix.
Which grout belongs in a pool
This is where most do-it-yourself repairs go wrong. Tile in a pool sits in water all day, in chemicals, in sun. Bagged wall grout from a big-box aisle is not built for that.
Two product families are commonly specified for submerged tile. TEC’s pool and water feature tile setting specification lists an ANSI A118.7 high-performance polymer-modified cement grout and an ANSI A118.3 chemical-resistant epoxy grout made from 100% solids.
Cement-based grout
A high-performance cement grout is easier to work with, easier to clean up and generally less expensive. The catch is chemistry. TEC says to keep pool pH between 7.2 and 7.8, because below 7.0 cement grout and mortar can etch and degrade, and low calcium hardness can wear them down over time. LATICRETE states in its technical data sheet that Portland-cement grout deteriorates more commonly than high-quality epoxy grout in submerged installations.
Epoxy grout
Epoxy is far less sensitive to swings in pool chemistry, which is why TEC describes its epoxy grout as less affected by chemistry variations. The trade-off is the installer, not the product. Epoxy has a short working time, needs precise mixing and must be cleaned off the tile face before it cures. One tile-industry reference puts working time at roughly 20 to 45 minutes depending on temperature. In a Phoenix summer, that clock runs fast. That is why epoxy is a better job for a crew that does it every week than for a first-timer.
Check the label
Whatever you choose, buy only a product whose manufacturer explicitly rates it for continuous submersion. Grout Atlas makes the same point: do not assume that standard cement, premixed or urethane grouts are suitable. TEC also advises using setting and grout materials from the same manufacturer, which avoids compatibility surprises.
If you are curious why grout fails in the first place, we explain it in why pool grout deteriorates and how to stop it.
How pool tile grout is replaced, step by step
This is the process a professional follows. It is also what you should expect to see in a written scope of work.
- Lower or drain the water. Work on a dry joint. How far the water goes down depends on whether you are doing the waterline only or more. Draining a plaster pool is not always safe or simple, so ask a pool professional before you pull the plug.
- Remove the old grout. LATICRETE’s procedure calls for removing existing grout to at least half the joint depth, down to sound grout or bedding mortar. A diamond blade on an angle grinder with a dustless attachment does the job; in some cases a high-pressure power washer can too. Wear a respirator and eye protection. Dust from grinding tile and cement is not something to breathe.
- Clean the joints. Vacuum out dust and rinse. Grout will not bond to a dirty joint.
- Deal with loose or cracked tiles. Cut them out carefully, clean the shell, remove the old thin-set and reset the tiles. LATICRETE names its 254 Platinum, 254 Platinum Plus, Glass Tile Adhesive Lite and Multimax Lite as options in the 2026 data sheet. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for whichever you choose.
- Mix and apply the new grout. Follow the mix ratio exactly. Pack the joint fully, tool it, and clean the tile face while the grout is workable.
- Seal the movement joints. TEC’s specification says expansion and control joints must comply with TCNA EJ171, and that seams around fittings and between tile and coping should be filled with appropriate sealant or caulk, not grout. Rigid grout in a movement joint will crack. Our article on pool mastic replacement explains why that flexible joint matters.
- Let it cure before the water comes back. LATICRETE’s data sheet gives, at 70°F, 10 days for its SPECTRALOCK PRO Premium epoxy grout and 14 days for the pre-mixed and cement grouts it specifies, before refilling. For a full new tile installation, TEC calls for 21 days of cure before the pool is filled. Your product’s data sheet governs; ask for it.
Refilling early is one of the failure causes LATICRETE lists. It is also the shortcut that is easiest to take when a family is waiting to swim.
A note on old materials
If your pool is old and you are unsure what the original tile setting bed or any surrounding siding or material is made of, pause before grinding. The Maryland Department of the Environment’s asbestos guidance advises wet methods and protective gear such as a respirator and disposable clothing when removing asbestos-containing materials. If you suspect older materials, have them tested before you cut into them.
What does waterline tile replacement cost?
Cost depends mainly on pool size, tile type and what is hiding behind the tile. HomeGuide’s 2026 pricing puts pool tile installation or replacement at $20 to $50 per square foot on average, including labor, and gives these averages for waterline-only work:
| Pool size | Waterline tile |
|---|---|
| 10’ x 20’ | $1,200 to $3,000 |
| 16’ x 32’ | $1,900 to $4,800 |
| 20’ x 40’ | $2,400 to $6,000 |
Full-pool tile is a different scale: HomeGuide lists $6,500 to $16,400 for a 10’ x 20’ pool and $13,600 to $34,000 for a 20’ x 40’ pool. Draining and refilling adds $80 to $600 or more, depending on pool size.
These are national averages. Glass and stone cost more than ceramic or porcelain. Hidden damage, such as a failed bond bed or cracked coping, raises the price. Regrouting alone is a smaller job than replacement, but we do not publish fixed prices because the right quote depends on the footage, the grout and what we find after the old material comes out. Ask for a line-item quote that separates demolition, substrate repair, materials and labor.
Our perspective: fix the cause, then the grout
We get called for pools that have already been regrouted once, sometimes twice. The grout is almost never the whole story. It is the part you can see.
Our take after a decade of pool transformations around Greater Phoenix:
- A regrout is only as good as the prep. Skimming new grout over weak old grout looks fine for a season. Cutting back to a sound base is what lasts.
- Match the material to the job. For a pool with a long-term plan, we lean toward the grout that best tolerates chemistry swings, as long as it is installed by people who handle it daily.
- Look wider than the tile. Failed tile is often the first sign of a coping, plaster or plumbing problem. We have fixed enough other contractors’ mistakes to know that a patch on the symptom comes back.
- Do not rush the cure. Everyone wants to swim. Waiting the full cure time is cheaper than redoing the work.
- Say what you find. If a regrout is enough, we say so. If the band needs replacing, we show you why.
Our pool renovation mistakes guide covers the errors we see most often.
— Brian
Let us look at your pool tile
If your grout is failing and you are not sure whether it is a regrout, a few tile resets or a full waterline replacement, we can inspect it and give you a clear answer. We handle pool tile replacement, grout work, coping and the shell repairs that sometimes sit behind them, all through our pool repair services for homeowners across the Phoenix area.
Ready to stop looking at crumbling grout? Book a free initial consult with We Fix Ugly Pools and get a plan that fixes the cause, not just the line.
FAQ
What type of grout do you use in a pool?
Use a grout the manufacturer rates for continuous submersion. In practice that means an ANSI A118.3 epoxy grout or an ANSI A118.7 high-performance cement grout. Standard wall grout and premixed grouts are not suitable unless the label says so.
What are the disadvantages of epoxy grout?
The main one is installation. Epoxy has a short working time, needs exact mixing and has to be cleaned off the tile quickly, so it is unforgiving for beginners. It also usually costs more than cement grout. Its upside is better resistance to pool chemistry.
Can you replace just the grout between tiles?
Yes, if the tiles are well bonded. Grind the old grout out to at least half the joint depth, clean the joints and regrout with a submersion-rated product. Loose or hollow tiles need to be reset first.
What should I use to reattach pool tiles?
Clean the shell, remove the old thin-set and set the tile with a polymer-modified thin-set or adhesive rated for submerged use. LATICRETE’s data sheet lists several of its products for this. Check the label for pool use and follow the data sheet.
How long before I can fill the pool after regrouting?
It depends on the product. At 70°F, one manufacturer’s data sheet gives 10 to 14 days depending on the grout. Check the data sheet for your product and allow longer in cooler weather.
Sources
- TEC, Section 093000 Tile Setting for pools and water features
- LATICRETE, Fountains and Water Features technical data sheet (TDS 186)
- LATICRETE, Fountains and Water Features technical data sheet, 2026 revision
- National Tile Authority, Pool and Spa Tile
- Grout Atlas, Pool Grout
- Pool Repair Guide, Pool Tile Repair and Regrouting
- Maryland Department of the Environment, asbestos FAQ
- HomeGuide, How Much Does Pool Tile Cost
